WS14: Post processing (in Lightroom)

Image editing and composition of pictures

We use Adobe Lightroom (full function and the best cataloguing module in the world), occasionally Nikon Capture NX (full function and in borderline cases slightly better) or Nikon ViewNX (restricted function but easy when travelling and using notebook computer). We sometimes also use Noiseware Pro, DXO Photolab and DXO PureRaw (Lightroom “preprocessor”) for maximal demosaicing and or noise reduction in borderline situations.

Image editing itself in Adobe Lightroom or Nikon ViewNX is not reviewed in this blog. Composition (kadering) or “design” or “creativity” in bird photography is beyond the scope of this site since we only review equipment and techniques. Nevertheless, because composition often already at the moment the picture is been shot, can make or break this picture, we will take a brief look at design and mention a few basic rules.

Over the years we discovered a set of rules or learned some from other birders and photographers. When photographing we always tend to postpone composition (kadering) in bird photography until the post processsing phase in Lightroom. During actual photograpy we position the subject bird(s) right away in the centre of our viewfinder to be sure the bird is technically in focus and gets correct light measurement unless we explicitly use focus and recompose. You can use your own specific approach of course.

Some design and composition rules when you are editing your bird pictures

“Rule of thirds”: Position your subject preferably at one or two thirds of height and or width of the picture.
Nevertheless do not hesitate to put the action or subject right in the centre if you feel that way.
Minimally (one or two) bird’s eyes should be visible in the picture. Otherwise the picture looks unnatural.
Preferably eye(s) bird visible in picture containing a light spot”. Bird looks more present that way.
Use symmetry, repetition, mirroring, opposition, juxtaposition or direction (lines leading to the same point in the picture or motion of subject(s) in a particular direction) to attract or direct attention in your the picture.
A picture may look more “special” or get special atmosphere when it contains only two to three colors.
Create perspective in picture using extreme tele or extreme close up.
Create “drama” by using low (“frog shot”) or high (“bird shot”) position of the camera.
Create special atmosphere/mood in picture using (part of) the actual environment or special colors.
Some people want the bird always to be situated “free” in the picture and not behind branches, leaves or whatsoever. Unless one’s goal is tto specifically photograph bird (sub)species as such with all external characteristics and details optimally visible, we tend to disagree. Some birds hide or happen to be in bushes, behind reed, partially under water or covered by something, etcetera. We prefer photographing birds, other animals and their characteristic activities in their natural surroundings as long as they are not completely hidden and at least their eyes are visible. Of course this is a matter of personal taste.
When by any means possible, make your picture contain something species-typical like catching a prey, taking a rain or sunbath, carrying nest building stuff, etcetera.
Avoid missing essential parts of the bird (head, feet, part of wing or tail). Sometimes it does not matter, sometimes it looks really bad.
When photographing ensure sufficient detail in all four light areas Highights, Whites, Shadows, Darks (underexpose protecting detail in Highlights and avoid noise avoiding low ISO values).
An action-picture may contain so called “speed” (out-focus moving (parts) subject (like wings or tail) or is “frozen“. Use respectively longer of shorter EXPOSURE TIME. Also this is personal taste.
Generally leave some room at all four sides of the picture for the bird itself. Don’t lock the bird up in a “box”. By the way in this blog we ignore this rule if we want to demonstrate the amount of detail in a picture.
It sometimes looks better if a bird is flying through the picture or is looking in direction left to right (“reading direction”).
Birds should not move towards edges nearby in the picture. Don’t let them almost “bump” into the edge of a picture.
(Object(s)) in the background may be significant: bokeh isolates the bird from the background, too much detail in the background may make a picture look “busy”, although background content can be informative about the birds environment, (coloured) objects may balance the contents of the entire picture, etcetera.
Some (partes of) flora or anyting in foreground may contribute to realistic impression of birds environment,
Do not follow these rules. This sometimes unexpectedly produces great pictures!

Soft cropping pictures

In post production you can always “soft crop” a digital image for example in Lightroom. We call this operation explicitly “soft cropping” to emphasize the difference with “hard cropping” which is performed by hardware and which by the way is irreversible.

Soft cropping can produce a dramatically different perspective and atmosphere in the picture. Look at the examples below.

Holland Kingfisher (IJsvogel) Z50 (soft cropped in Lightroom):