Foto at top: BORDERLINE CASE reach (bereik). Estremadura Spain Hen Harrier (Blauwe Kiekendief) with prey 45 meter sun handheld D7200 sun handheld D7200 Sigma Sport 150-600mm f/5.0-6.3 TC 1401 equivalent 1260mm standard camouflage. But few seconds to make this picture.

Quality (beeldkwaliteit, color space (kleurruimte), white balance (witbalans)

Set camera and lens all by yourself to optimal values of Autofocus, APERTURE (diafragmawaarde), ISO (sensorgevoeligheid) and EXPOSURE TIME, because you fully understand the technical operation of your camera(‘s), lens(es) and converter(s). You will have full control regarding picture quality and optima autofocus and tracking. So set Qualityitem on your camera to RAW. RAW workflow uses NEF file format (Nikon Electronic Format). RAW photographs will not automatically be compressed and “optimized” into JPG format files by the camera computer but as such be transferred onto the memory card in the camera. RAW files can be optimised by you in post production using editing software like Lightroom and or other image editors. You use RAW workflow in order to get maximum quality pictures with minimal noise, high contrast, optimal color contrast and maximal detail. This implies larger files and more work but potentially far better pictures.

White balance (kleurbalans) defines the color temperature of the pictures You do not have to reset it as long as light conditions will not change. And when required white balance can easily be corrected in post production software like Lightroom. So, when every second counts, don’t bother about correct white balance but use all the time you got to optimaaly set “Big Three” and leave white balance optimisation to post production.

Color space (kleurruimte) is informing the camera which and how many different color variatons it should use (“color space”) to be compatible with your post production software. If you are using Adobe Lightroom or Capture NX or View NX then set this parameter to Adobe Colorspace.

Automatic exposure measurement AE (automatische lichtmeting AE)

Once the camera has been switched on it will automatically measure the amount of light reflected by the subject, for example your bird, as soon as you half (or full) press release button. This is called “Automatic Exposure metering” or “AE“. You can switch your camera, more or less permanently, into one of four light metering modes for using its built-in light meter:

• Matrix metering: camera will try to make a picture with overall average exposure (belichting). Pro: it is relatively easy and modern Nikon camera’s like D500 and Z50 produce almost perfect out-of-the-camera pictures using matrix metering. Con: If a bird has lower contrast or is clearly under- or over exposed, centre weighted metering is preferable.

• Spot metering: camera will create a picture based on the amount of light measured at a selected spot in focus. Pro: very accurate. Con: amount of light measured at the pertinent spot will define too short or too long EXPOSURE TIME for the entire picture. So we never use this in bird photography.

• Centre weighted metering: the amount of light measured in the central area of the image will put more weight in the calculation of the required EXPOSURE TIME. The size of this central area can be separately set in most camera’s and this setting is quite important since our bird is often in the centre of the picture. Pro: good for special cases in bird potography. Also because your bird is usually in the centre of the picture (during focussing that is). Con: you may need some testing to find out overall exposure results especially in case of large, light or dark, tinted birds or partially dark and partially light tinted birds like Goosander male or Avocet (Kluut) (too much noise in Low Lights). And remember: once your camera is focused: AF point is also AE point!

• Highlight weighted metering: prevents clipping (verlies van detaillering in Hoge Lichten door overbelichting). Pro: good and safe method. Con: not the right choice when you are explicitly using underexposure yourself via EXPOSURE TIME +/- button.

3. Photographic camera settings set with every picture

Basically you will check and (re)set the following three settings important settins every time you start photograhng and thereafter every time you make a (series of) picture(s):

• APERTURE
• ISO sensitivity
• EXPOSURE TIME

They are key in photography and sometimes called “Big Three“. We will always write them in bold caps and review them in detail at pages 10 APERTURE, 11 ISO sensitivity and 12 EXPOSURE TIME.